Hanok, knock. Who's there? Jeonj. Jeonj-who? Correct

Jeonju (전주) then - another historical Korean city, another nice morning of sightseeing and another tedious afternoon bent over my laptop and a crumpled tourist map double-checking whether 'Gyeonggijeon' has a double 'g' with my increasingly poor eyesight and wondering why I didn't just go to Wales or something. Oh wait, that would be even more frustrating - at least the Korean language has vowels.

Jeonju was the capital of the Hubaekje Kingdom (900-936 AD), making some of it very, very old. Hanok Village is the nice bit, filled with old-style slopey houses (in an architectural rather than a racist sense), optimistic art shops and nice hills with occasional dead stuff. It's sort of the Malacca of South Korea, and like that Malaysian city I ended up killing more time here than my patience would have preferred, as I couldn't afford to leave. There are worse places to get stranded.

And that's why Koreans eat dogs

Oh yeah, I'd forgotten all about the dog meat thing. That's Korea, isn't it? That was probably one of the first things I'd think of if Korea was mentioned in the old, pre-travelling days (let's not give me more credit than I was due - it was the only thing I'd think of), but obviously it's not the sort of thing you see in every high street or restaurant in the South Korea of today. I haven't seen it anywhere, or even heard anything about it, and the thorough research I've just carried out reveals that it's basically illegal.

So dog lovers have nothing to worry about there - you can happily tear away at the scorched flesh of some other intelligent mammal without the nagging doubt that it might be a lovely pooch. Yeah, because I'm so vegetarian. A few weeks ago I actually planned to abstain from meat for a week in Korea to see if it's too difficult (provisional blog title: 'Vegetakorean') but by 7PM on Monday I was happily tucking into a bulgogi pizza and the experiment was void. Just eat bibimbap all the time and stop whining - save your strength.

But today I met an irritating little bowwowin' bastard who was cruisin' for a marinadin', and who I'll pretend hindered my plans to wander the hills around Jeonju, when in reality I just couldn't work out what was a public footpath and what was someone's private driveway. Never mind, this blog is a catalogue of failures and I wouldn't want to disappoint you by doing something right.